![]() ![]() I wasn't quite able to both focus on the stitch and keep my design in mind, so I found this to be very helpful. To make it easier to follow your design, I recommend marking the stitches you will duplicate using an erasable fabric marker. ![]() You want the tension to match the fabric you are knitting. Start and stop your working yarn if you need to skip a large area.īe mindful of the tension of your stitches. To maintain the stretchiness of the original fabric, try to work your stitches in horizontal rows and don't carry your yarn over more than a couple of stitches. And that's the completed stitch! Just keep working that stitch to finish your design. Bring your needle back through your original entry point at the base of the "V."Ĥ. Pass the needle through the back of the stitch you are covering.ģ. You can see in this photo that I have highlighted where this stitch will be.Ģ. To start the stitch, bring your darning needle up through the base of the first "V" you want to stitch. turn your work inside out and pull 6-10 inches of yarn through and weave in your end with your preferred method, this will allow for your yarn to be secured while working your duplicate stitch and then you don’t have to worry about accidently not having enough of a tail to weave in at the end.1. Using your needle with yarn threaded through, insert the needle into the V directly below the first colorwork stitch. The stitches will look like little V shapes running upwards. With your work facing you, right side up, find where the first stitch of the colorwork motif should be. I went with the long length and only have 4 ends to weave in at the end. If using a longer length of yarn there is a higher risk of tangles and a lot of yarn to pull through in the beginning but you have less ends to weave in. If using a shorter length, you have less pulling through of the yarn each time and less risk for tangles but you may have to weave in a lot of ends. You can honestly use whatever length of yarn you want, there are pros and cons to using long or short amounts of yarn. Knitted work should always be blocked and allowed to completely dry before using duplicate stitch, if you skip this step your tension can get wonky as the yarn will grow or shrink once washed. Block and allow the piece to completely dry. I chose every 10 rnds because this is a rather long motif, but you can shorten this depending on the length of the motif. I also placed markers along the center spine of the motif every 10 rnds to help me keep track of where I was in the pattern. Knit the sleeves in the round per the pattern placing removable locking stitch markers at the start and the end of where the colorwork motif is intended to go. Materials needed: finished knitted piece blocked and fully dry, darning needle, removable locking stitch markers, yarn, scissors. The sleeve motif is meant to be like an elbow patch so even if there a little extra bulk it wouldn’t really matter anyway. I was worried it was going to add all this extra bulk to my sweater but I can’t even tell. Obviously, I chose the latter and am thrilled with how it turned out. I had two choices at this point, either knit the sleeves without the amazing colorwork motif, or use duplicate stitch to get the same effect. I’m sure with lots of practice it won’t be that bad, but just starting off I found it to be very difficult and after a few attempts I gave up. Well, for me it turns out very hard indeed. How hard could it be I thought to myself. This pattern however called for instria colorwork knitting which I have never done before. I can knit colorwork in the round on small circumference needles, but it is not my favorite. I absolutely fell in love with this pattern as soon as I saw it and knew I just had to knit it. In my example, I used my Bluestone Pullover I recently completed. I found learning how to sew a duplicate stitch to be so helpful in several of my recent projects that I thought I would pass along what I have learned. Since my last tutorial was such a hit, I figured I would do another one, this time on how to sew (or is it knit) a duplicate stitch.
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